When planting roses, you'll need
to consider the space you want the rose bush to fill, as well as the climate
you're in. Some roses are hardier than others. Below are some common rose
types to choose from:
Hybrid Teas: These combine the ever-blooming quality of old tea roses
with the hardiness of hybrid perpetuals. They come in a wide color range,
have large, fragrant fs, and will survive temperatures as low as 10-20°
with winter protection.
Floribundas: These usually require less care than hybrid teas. Large
clusters of fs from June to frost. Best for mass plantings and landscaping.
Will survive temperatures as low as 20-30°.
Grandifloras: Because of their robust growth, healthy foliage, and
profuse bloomage, these are excellent roses for beginners and can survive
temperatures as low as 10-20°.
Hybrid perpetuals: Rose collectors prize these roses. They bloom mainly
in the spring and are very hardy in the winter.
Polyanthas: These average 18 inches in height. They produce small
fs in large clusters and work well in mass plantings and borders. Very
hardy.
Climbers and Ramblers: Some shrub type roses can be trained as climbers,
and you can find hybrid tea, floribunda and polyantha climbers. Generally
a climbing rose will produce relatively little growth from the base
of the plant. They need good circulation and, of course, good support.
Creepers: These provide cover for banks and walls. Most varieties
are quite hardy, but the fs aren't as pretty as some other roses.
Miniatures: These carry one-inch blooms and reach only 6-12".
Good for rock gardens, borders, edgings and containers.
Planting Tips ...
When to Plant: Generally if your
winter temperatures stay above 10°, plant any time of the cool season
when plants are dormant (no growth is visible on the canes). If your winter
temperatures stay above -10°, plant mid to late fall, or early spring.
If your winter temperatures regularly go below -10°, wait until spring
to plant. Plant just as soon as the ground thaws.
Where to Plant: Roses like at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. If
you have to choose between morning or afternoon sun, morning is best.
Dewy leaves will dry sooner, cutting down on the possibility of some diseases.
Most shrubs require plenty of space - plant 2-2 1/2 feet apart. Climbers
may require up to 6 feet spacing.
Prepare the Soil: If your soil is good enough to grow grass, shrubs
and fs, it will probably grow roses. But you may want to add organic matter
such as peat moss, compost, or decomposed
manure. (Try this: Save old hair from your hair brushes and combs. Spread
a handful of old hair in the bottom of the hole, then cover with organic
material.) Fertilize entire bed at a rate of 3-5 lbs per 100 square feet.
Use a plant food containing nitrogen, sodium phosphorus and potash in
a ration of 1-2-1.
Planting: Keep roots moist until you're ready to plant. The hole should
be deep and wide enough not to cramp roots. Trim away dead or broken root
tips, then spread roots over low mound in hole. Adjust depth so that the
graft "knob" is one inch below surface in the North, or one
inch above in the South. Firm soil over roots to within 3 inches of ground
level. Fill hole with water and let it soak in. Refill, then add soil
to proper depth. Prune tops back to six inches using slanting cuts 1/4"
above strong outside buds. Treat stub tips with wound compound. Mound
soil over stubs and leave it all winter if you plant in fall. Hose mound
away in spring when new shoots are 1/2" long. Spring planting may
require mounding too, especially in temperatures.
Caring for your roses ...
Fertilize: During the growing season,
fertilize twice - once after spring growth starts and again in midsummer.
Winter Protection: During the winter, protect your roses with an 8-12
inch mound of soil or mulch. Fabric or plastic can also be used to surround
the base of plant.
Pruning: Avoid pruning roses in freezing weather. Wait until mid to
late spring, when new growth appears. First, cut back all winter-killed
dead-wood to live, green stems. Then, choose an outward-facing bud and
cut at a 45 degree angle about 1/4 inch above the bud.
Thinning: Keep your rosebushes healthy by thinning out straggly, overly
long shoots. Cut away any dead or diseased stems and remove faded blooms
(deadheads) to encourage new growth.
When Cutting Flowers: Leave two healthy five-leaflet leaves on remaining
stem to help the plant maintain its vigor.
Propagation ...
You can start a new rose bush by
taking cuttings from your favorite bushes. Propagating roses just requires
some tender loving care...
First select vigorous new growth canes. Make a slanting cut on
stem and leave a bud just above the cut.
Next remove leaves and buds and place the cutting half it's length in
water or moist vermiculite. A rooting compound added to the water or vermiculite
can speed up root development. Leave in a well-lighted place at a temperature
of around 70° for around 4-6 weeks. Keep from direct sunlight by
shading with cheesecloth or nursery netting.
Then when roots are developed, plant them carefully in pots containing
a mixture of 1/2 sand and 1/2 compost. Bury the pots outdoors in a sheltered
spot and water regularly. Wait until plant is growing vigorously before
transplanting.
DID YOU KNOW...
In Ancient Greece and Rome it was
believed that roses were all originally white until Venus, the goddess of
love, pricked her foot on a rose thorn as she hurried to save her imperiled
lover. A drop of her sacred blood fell on the rose petals and dyed it forever
red.
The 15th Century conflict between the English royal houses of York and
Lancaster is known as the War of the Roses because the men of York supposedly
wore a white rose as their badge while those of Lancaster wore a red rose.
In fact, Lancaster didn't adopt the red rose as its badge until the wars
were over.
In 1986 Congress adopted the rose as the official f of the United States,
despite Senator E. Dirkson's long campaign for the marigold.
APHIDS
Small brown, green yellow or red colored insects with pear shaped bodies.
Aphids cluster on buds, leaves and tips of shoots. They feed on plant
juices causing poor plant growth and distorted leaves. Insecticide containing
malathion can take care of these pests. Systemic insecticides can also
be used. These help the plant combat buts from the inside.
LEAF TIERS
Small, green caterpillars that feed like slugs. They spin a web and roll
the leaf around their bodies. Crush tier inside leaf roll or remove infested
leaves and burn.
SPIDER MITES
Reddish-brown, greenish or yellow, barely visible oval bodies found on
the undersides of leaves. Mites suck plant juices, causing whitish or
yellowish speckled areas on tops of leaves. Heavy infestations produce
frail, silky webbing and can cause plant to die.
SLUGS
Slugs skeletonize leaves, giving them a lacy effect. Larvae are easily
recognized by yellowish-green color and 1/2" tapered bodies. Start
spraying early to prevent.
JAPANESE BEETLES
About 3/8", metallic green with coppery-brown wing covers. Appear
on fs and leaves usually in mid to late summer.
